The 8 Hottest Trends For Winter 2020-2021
Creative director and stylist, Yann Weber. Photographer, Patrick Weldé. Producer, Guillaume Folliero de Luna. Hairdresser, Olivier Schawalder. Make-up artist, Tiziana Raimondo. Fashion coordinator, Nikita Radelet.
Left: Jacket and Pants,
Brown Leather Cloud Handbag Mansur Gavriel,
Center: Jacket Acne Studio, Ingrid flared pants in black wool blend Rejina Pyo, Belt with black leather pouch Y/Project, Mini Cloud leather bag Mansur Gavriel.
Right: Black breastplate Loewe, Blue dress Acne Studio, Cloud leather handbag Mansur Gavriel.
Every season, it's almost as if fashion designers have been passing notes, placed side by side, the continuity of their creations often leave us wondering how they all managed to be struck by the same ideas simultaneously. And yet, given that they're steeped in social and cultural transformations, designers almost double as sociologists, experts of visual codes. Whatever the case may be, they often act as mirrors of their times; and fashion, of course, is part of that reflection. Since the 19th century, the industry has been a hub for the creation of style: transforming garments into works of fashion, and fashion into an added value via the prism of media and, today, social networks. This winter, it's all about comfort, cocooning, and a sense of restful escape, plus gender-neutral jewelry and timeless silhouettes — all with an eye to greater inclusivity. Here, a look at eight of this season's hottest trends.
Nude tones, amber ombrés, nuances of terra cotta, beige, and ocre, with a side of russet-toned prints, neutrals and naturalism are everywhere. This season's palette inspires a sense of escape into the quiet joys of nature. Combined in ensembles like we saw at Missoni, Marni, Lanvin and Acne Studios, the trend points to a growing penchant for nature, authenticity, and a return to the land in an era of ecological emergency. Symbolically charged, it's also a delicate illustration of fashion's complicated relationship with its climate impact. As further demonstration of this connection, more and more creators are choosing to hold their shows in natural settings — spaces of freedom that contrast with their confined urban counterparts. Recently, Jacquemus' catwalk took place in a field of wheat, Burberry staged a show in the middle of an English forest, and Paria Farzaneh chose an idyllic meadow. Fashion is having a rural moment.
As the industry becomes more inclusive, it's a valuable reminder that fashion is for all ages and body types — it's up to the clothes to adapt to the wearer, and not the other way around. In this sense, designers are no longer content to simply place models over fifty on the runway; through both their images and their designs, they're demonstrating that today's garments have been imagined for all wearers, independent of generational clichés. This new attitude crystallizes in recent designs from Loewe, Lanvin, and Neil Barrett, with cuts guaranteeing maximum comfort thanks to flexible materials. The new designs reflect a more benevolent society, founded on inter-generational synergy.
Wool blend patchwork cardigan Marni, Bubble print Oxford shirt Marni, Beige pants Loewe, Bi-material DBB1 sneakers Lanvin.
Once upon a time, jewels were objects of masculine power identified with the monarchy and aristocracy. Around the end of the 18th century, they became less associated with masculinity and started being worn by women. This, however, was only in subjecting themselves to a pre-determined feminine role in the game of seduction. We would have to wait for the second half of the 20th century for women to don jewelry on their own terms and independently of men. It's only recently that gems have begun to shake up gender codes anew. As an indication of this growing freedom, in 2018 Kim Jones named Yoon Anh, creator of Ambush, head of jewelry for Dior Homme. This season, mixed pieces are proliferating at Vivienne Westwood, Alan Crocetti, Raf Simons, and are stunning on all silhouettes.
The Mask, The New Must-Have (in Spite of Itself)
It took fashion houses a few months to try their hand at masks, the now-ubiquitous prophylactic accessory, and transform them into stylish accessories. Some, like Boramy Viguier, anticipated the "trend" at Fashion Week this past March, where models walked masked: a gesture that today seems almost prophetic. Martin Margiela also masked his models, giving the clothing center stage. If we have to hide our faces in respect for healthcare protocols, we might as well upgrade our look as well. Sporting a mask that stands out can be a chance to express creativity, taste, and give a hint of personality. The #facemask hashtag, which already has several million tags on Instagram, highlights this growing shift. In flashy colors and original prints, masks can be matched to an ensemble or add a vibrant flash to monochrome looks.
Left: Two-tone reversible jacket Neil Barrett,
Pack of two printed masks Lanvin.
Right: Palm Angels green striped jacket, Blue striped sweater in wool and alpaca mix Lanvin, Pack of two pink printed masks Lanvin.
Winter Bucket Hats
Formerly known as summertime accessories that signaled tanning sessions and barbecues, hailing from a time nearly forgotten by fashion, the bucket hat is back. Before it became a mainstay on magazine pages, this symbol of coolness was part of military outfit: it was worn by American GIs in France during the Second World War. What's new is that this season, it's shed its beachwear status and taken up winter streetwear. Bell-shaped and in crushed velvet at Marni, classically-minimalist at expert hat-maker Maison Michel, with a nod to the fedora at Gucci, undersized and in nylon at Prada, and as a rain-hat at Off-White — the bucket hat is a versatile item that's evidently well-adapted to this season's weather.
Belted blazers and mustard-colored tartan miniskirts at Miu Miu, aged velvet suits and flared pants at Acne Studios, soft knits at Gucci, flirty retro bags at Lanvin and Aspinal of London, and the perfect cardigans for cozying up next to the fire — vintage inspirations are flourishing in this season's collections. Vivienne Westwood remains an eternal lover of cheeky historical references like crinoline and bustle dresses, much like Gucci's Alessandro Michele. It's high time to adopt some trends that we're familiar with, in the form of throwbacks and retro aesthetics. This, of course, is one of fashion's many paradoxes: the eternal metronome between a reassuring past and the open horizon of the future. One thing's certain; old fashion archives, shared across social networks, are entirely of-the-moment.
Left: Yellow wool blend jacket, Yellow wool blend maxi skirt Miu Miu.
The total knit look
Knitwear has rarely been so well-repped in our winter looks, in the form of dresses, sweaters, pants, XXL cardigans, and as a total, layered look. This cuddly, comfortable, and stretchy trend is totally loungewear compatible. And while it's perfect for relaxing, it's also versatile (and classy) enough to wear outside. A nice big Prada jacquard sweater, an exaggeratedly fluffy Marni cardigan to wrap yourself in, and a Missoni blazer; knitwear is stealing the show. As for the XXL Acne Studios scarves, they're quite literally blankets, to bundle up in or drape like a poncho.
Black wool logo scarf Acne Studio, Brown ribbed cotton bucket hat Marni.
Right: Grey Canada Cash scarf Acne Studio, Hat Maison Michel.
Clothing as Cocoon
Sleeveless, multi-pocket vests at Prada, architectural puffer coats from Moncler, ponchos in leather at Loewe, coats styled like quilted armor at Baum und Pferdgarten and scarf-blankets from Acne Studios — fashion is weaving itself a cocoon. The clothes are comforting, suggesting a desire to protect ourselves from the outer world. Layers upon layers illustrate a certain craving for a safe space; zones of comfort in what might feel like a moment of uncertainty. Here, clothes become synonymous with serenity and resilience. They're also ideal for long walks in nature, with all-terrain looks that combine outerwear and workwear: cargo pants, khaki hues with military undertones, and multi-function jackets as handy as any Swiss army knife.