There is a paradox at Maison Margiela that exists nowhere else: while all labels compete on the talent and reputation of their creative director, generally resulting in a cult of personality, this French fashion house has built a large part of its history on the invisibility of its eponymous founder. The iconic and mysterious Martin Margiela is one of the great couturiers of the 20th Century, despite the existence of very few photos of him and having only given one interview in his entire career. Having graduated from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1984, alongside the avant-garde fashion collective of Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, he started out at Jean Paul Gaultier, where he worked until 1987.