The pandemic has challenged our certainties. Should seasonal collections be maintained, even as some allege that they're wasteful? Should lavish shows be put on for a drastically reduced number of attendees? And what about the separation of men's and women's events? They're questions that will take some time to answer. In the meantime, France's Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode ("Federation for fashion and haute couture"), has taken the initiative by announcing a totally digital Men's Fashion Week to allow for the presentation of Spring-Summer 2021 collections, from July 9th to 13th. "One must make do," say the skeptics, while the optimists respond that it is an opportunity for creative innovation. The participating fashion houses will thus present their pieces in creative films or video formats. The dedicated platform will also showcase diverse content to energize the event.
After two months of improvised Instalives featuring pixelized images and FaceTime fashion shoots, expectations are high. Balenciaga's "fashion film,", created by Will Benedict and broadcast last February, is often referenced as a perfect example thanks to its aesthetic and narrative relevance. The pitch? Virtual models-turned-TV-presenters bring us the latest news, and the turn is decidedly dystopian. But this season, creators didn't have much time to digitize their collections and put together surprising and engaging video compositions. Indeed, it is a job for an entirely different industry — and it looks like the future of these collections might hang in the balance.
The British Fashion Council provided a preliminary response by organizing a digital Fashion Week that combined men's and women's shows on a single platform from June 12th to 14th. The advantage? The presentations of the collections, but also interviews, behind-the-scenes, and more — were accessible to all. It was an interesting turn in which the traditional hierarchy of the shows and their famed front rows took a back seat. Special focus was also placed on eco-responsibility, with documentaries on recycling (Marques'Almeida) and messages praising diversity and acceptance (Charles Jeffrey Loverboy).
Balmain carried the torch, presenting a show to which one and all were cordially, and virtually, invited. The brand celebrated its 75th birthday on a houseboat along the Seine. The event followed the launch of the digital showroom, with a virtual avatar of artistic director Olivier Rousteing acting as guide. A novel way of reimagining fashion, and of finally making it accessible to all.