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NEWS

Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2023: 10 unmissable highlights

By Paloma Frère | October 7, 2022

Bella Hadid closing Coperni ss23

Bella Hadid clôturant le défilé femme ss23 Coperni

While the Spring-Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week has taken its final bow, catch the highlights and zoom in on the coming trends and hot designers, from Ester Manas to Balenciaga, from Gucci to Thom Browne.

1. Coperni's spray-on dress for Bella Hadid

Reposted on social networks around the world, the unforgettable event of this fashion week was definitely the dress created live on Bella Hadid during the Coperni show! During the live performance, the superstar appeared almost nude onstage, when three men with spray guns began covering her in a material that solidified upon contact with her skin. A few strokes of a scissor later and the Spray-on fabric © dress was ready! Once again, the collection from Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant was guided by innovation and showed the way to next spring.


2. Nature finds Loewe!

Once again this season, nature was a source of inspiration for Jonathan Anderson, artistic director of Loewe. In an echo to his SS23 men's collection with grass on clothing and shoes, the anthurium plant was highlighted on the women's side. With XXL flower tops, leaf-ornament sandals and floral prints, you could tell that Loewe's been thinking about the interdependence between fashion, nature and...technology. The flora-inspired pieces were paired with pixelated tops, ascot collars and (very) short dresses. Nature and excess, dreams and audacity.


Look Loewe ss23

Look Loewe ss23

3. Less is Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada, in her ultra-minimalist approach, revealed a collection full of sobriety at Paris Fashion Week. She explained her process as a will to design clothes convenient for everyday life. So the cuts, materials and the shapes were very modern and refined. Along with their sporty-chic allure, the pieces are very functional with technical materials and big pockets. Seeking the boundary between fashion's decorative side and its real functionality, this collection is a vision of the modern uniform.


4. Seeing double at Gucci

It was under the sign of Gemini that Gucci, directed by Alessandro Michele, presented its Twinsburg collection during Milan Fashion Week. The show revealed the different influences of the artistic director throughout his life: his culture, his family, Italy. On deck: very 80s silhouettes and polar bear or Gremlin bags. And on top of that, a hoard of twins, a reference to his biological mother who was also a twin. Also the message “Fuori” (out) plastered on the clothes like a battle cry!


5. The shapes of the body celebrated by Ester Manas

Ester Manas et Balthazar Delepierre presented “Summer body”, a hymn to an uninhibited femininity. And to celebrate its mantra, there were models ranging from size 34 to 50 on the runway, flying the brand's colours. On the agenda: ruffled bodycon dresses, cuts with gathered fabrics and t-shirts bearing messages, one of which, the surprise of the show, showed the Ester Manas logo as well as the Ganni logo, announcing a collaboration with the Danish brand. Ganni also designed the shoes for the collection, shodding the leaders of the positive body movement in studded clogs and ribbon sandals.


Look 1 Summer Body, Ester Manas

Look 2 Summer Body, Ester Manas

6. Futurist Vuitton

It was under a marquee of a futuristic funfair that Nicolas Ghesquière revealed his collection for Louis Vuitton. He affirmed his mastery of the brand's codes, allowing himself a stylistic game of proportions. The result? An offbeat universe made of diamond patterns, oversized shoes and details, and frilly pants. On point!


7. Dior is a hit!

Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of womenswear at Dior, paid homage to Catherine de Medici. By choosing this powerful woman, Maria invites women to reveal the dark queen lying dormant within. Corsets, petticoats, fishnet stockings and kitten heels: the looks revisited the classics of the Victorian era with a gothic twist. The highlight of the show, décor by artist Eva Jospin, recreating the Italian grottos of Lombardy using cardboard!


8. Dear to the heart of Balmain

Since 2019, Balmain has opened up the closed world of fashion week to the public. For this 3rd edition, Olivier Rousteing chose the theme of the renaissance (literally) and highlighted his Ethiopian and Somali origins. The Balmain show in a few looks? Prints of Renaissance paintings, structured pieces in braided raffia, the flames of a phoenix reborn from its ashes and sumptuous layering. Highlight of the show: the singer Cher dressed in a futurist jumpsuit going from screen to stage. By choosing this LGBTQIA+ icon, the couturier proclaimed his unifying concept of fashion to the world. 


Cher et Olivier
Cher et Olivier Rousteing au défilé Balmain
9. Muddy Balenciaga

Demna Gvasalia, artistic director of Balenciaga, invited the world of fashion onto a battlefield, presenting a post-apocalyptic runway covered in mud. The codes of couture and the military collided: chain mail, chains and stains paired with glitter, pleats and flashy colours. Audacious accessories appeared: muddy ballet flats, mouthguards and crisp packets. Addressing subjects like global warming and the war in the Ukraine, the creative leader of Balenciaga once again used his art to share a vision of our society.

10. Enchantment by Thom Browne

Thom Brown presented another crazy, electric show at the Palais Garnier, a reinterpretation of Cinderella with a punk-couture take. The public was able to rediscover the Charles Perrault fairy tale, where a pumpkin was replaced by a pink Cadillac, and where rock n roll hairstyles and visible undergarments reigned! In the collection: Polka-dotted jackets, unusual accessories, pastel accessories, and of course, the famous must-have grey suit.

Look Thom Browne ss23
Défilé Thom Browne
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