Linen, The Perennial Textile

NEWS | January 31, 2021

Used in garments since ancient times, this plant fiber touts numerous virtues and is being popularized by designers and contemporary brands, from Jacquemus to Loewe to Maison Sarah Lavoine.

One of linen's most striking qualities, though it's far from being the only one, is that it satisfies a growing demand for locally cultivated goods. Indeed, these delicate blue flowers grow predominantly in Europe, where 85% of worldwide production takes place. Cultivated across a strip of land that runs from Caen to Amsterdam, France is its primary producer. All this means fewer kilometers in transport and less pollution. Eco-responsible, it's cultivated as part of a rotating crop — where each year the same field will be used to grow different plants, in order to prevent exhausting the soil — and produces little in the way of phosphates or nitrates. Even better, one hectare of linen absorbs 3.7 tons of CO2 annually. It's an ecological boon; plus, it doesn't need much in the way of fertilizer or pesticides, and it's easy on our water supply because it grows in rainy areas.

From the meadows to our wardrobes, linen's good qualities result in a bafflingly long list. Once it's been turned into a garment, linen starts to exercise its antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties. It's also a great fabric for thermoregulation — the fibers trap or release air according to the exterior temperature, rendering it an ally to our bodies all year round. Plus, it's long been favored for its durability and easy upkeep.

All these advantages have attracted numerous fashion brands who now use linen liberally in their collections. It's used in t-shirts from Maison Sarah Lavoine and Acne; Jacquemus favors it for one iteration of his iconic Chiquito bag, as well as in skirts, colorful jackets, and men's shorts. Paul Smith integrates it into his signature suits and blazers, Bourrienne uses it for their sharp button-downs, and Loewe considers it perfect for this oversized piece. Last but not least, Zimmermann sings linen's praises with a series of dresses, rompers, and crop tops in joyful floral prints. While linen's always been in style, this season it's back on everyone's radar.