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The Return of the Silk Scarf

NEWS | by Marine POYER | August 31, 2021
In the past, headscarves have been worn for reasons religious, social, and aesthetic, but one thing's for certain: this is an accessory that's been around for centuries. This season, they're back in a big way, whether it's a breezy swathe at the crown of the head, a bandana around the neck, or a silken hairpiece. Here, we take a closer look at a trend that's got our head in the game.

An oldie, but a goodie
Everyone knows that the best looks can come from the most unexpected places, or closets. For Autumn-Winter 2021, designers are proving this old adage true by choosing to celebrate an accessory that's been on the outs for a while. After a timid reawakening a few seasons ago, the silk scarf has finally made its comeback this year — we've spotted it on plenty of girls and boys in the spotlight, whether covering their hair or acting as a choker. The slightly dated effect that the piece lends to looks is reminiscent of starlets past and their nostalgic elegance, from Grace Kelly to Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O. Strength lies in versatility, and there's no shortage of different styles here: monogrammed, multicolor, printed with text or patterns, the headscarf is a new space of expression for designers, who have made it their greatest ally in infusing collections with pops of color. But like any self-respecting trend, this isn't the scarf's first time around the block — back in the 90s, it was a favorite of the era's pop culture heroines, like Carrie Bradshaw and Alicia Keys. Today's creators aren't afraid to bring us unexpected remixes on the old classic, from the drastically-shrunken to the outrageously luxurious. If one thing's for sure, it's that there's one out there for any style. Whether your beat is retro, streetwear, or Riviera, this swatch of fabric is enjoying a height of success that's inversely proportional to its size.

thelma et louise

From Thelma & Louise

A chic, functional essential
If true fashion is perhaps, by definition, anything but practical, that doesn't mean that style and functionality can't mix. Objects that make our lives easier indeed deserve a place in all our hearts — just think of your favorite tote bag or pair of sunglasses. Ideal for camouflaging unkempt strands just waiting to be coiffed, these silken squares protect our manes from antagonists like wind, rain, and city dust, all while elevating our entire outfit. Never again will you worry about flyaways, hair in your eyes (or lip gloss), and they're just as ideal for sweltering summer days in the city as for popping in your suitcase for a much-needed getaway.

Elizabeth II with headscarf

The headscarf, Queen Elizabeth II's favorite accessory

A comeback that's been seasons in the making
As for any classic, the headscarf craze didn't happen overnight. In fact, it's been seasons now that several designers have been pushing for a revival, starting in June 2016 when Alessandro Michele opted to ornament some of his models with the silken square so dear to Queen Elizabeth II, during Gucci's, 2017 Resort show at Westminster Abbey. It was a wink to the aging monarch, who has left no room for doubt regarding her most beloved accessory for summers at Balmoral and more. Richard Quinn also went for a knotted scarf around the neck for his Fall-Winter 2018 show, at which her Majesty herself just happened to be in attendance and went on to award the designer with a prize for social engagement and an eco-friendly approach to fashion. Not one to be forgotten, Donatella Versace also added her personal touch to the adornment, saturating scarves with her brother's legendary prints from the 90s and flooding the catwalk with them for Spring-Summer 2018. Indeed, it was the perfect antidote to London's foggy winter days, transporting us to the turquoise coasts of the designer's youth. Most importantly, however, the pieces were the perfect additions to already-punchy ensembles, and thereby made fans of a rising generation of fashionistas. Once the seed had been sewn, it was just a question of time. Fall-Winter 2021 is the scarf's time to shine: from Christian Dior to Casablanca Max Mara, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and, of course, Versace, the piece saturated Fashion Month runway shows. All that's left now is for you to cop your own.

le foulard dans les défilés
Left: Versace. Right: Zimmerman.
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